Location:
250 East 49th Street new-york
The tradition being passed on here is not the Molièrean fustiness with which its creator and original proprietor, Augustin Paege, commandeered his florid temple to Art Nouveau and arch feyness. Instead, the new yarmulke-wearing owners have rechristened (you should pardon the expression) the Box Tree as the fanciest, shmanciest glatt-kosher restaurant in town. And you know something? Like Levy’s bread, you don’t have to be Jewish...You’ll like it here because it’s good. Not only is the cooking as solid as my late Aunt Doris’s flanken, but you won’t get heartburn—and it’s not what you think. Hearty portions of Peking duck, côte de boeuf, and seared Thai-basil tuna. Excellent roast Cornish game hen and pistachio-crusted Chilean sea bass.
